Předloni v zimě jsme plánovali letní trek. „Pojedeme do Alp, do Španělska nebo na další trek do Irska. Hele, a tady to určitě taky bude super!“ Pořád jsme to překombinovávali a překombinovávali a přicházeli s dalšími nápady, až se nám zkrátka zachtělo jednoduchosti. Žádné shánění letenek, hledání kempů či jiných spacích možností v cizí zemi. Tak jsme se nakonec rozhodli zůstat v naší domovině a jedno červnové ráno jsme na záda naložili baťohy a v Hojsově stráži vystoupili z autobusu.
Před námi nebyly žádné konkrétní plány, žádný dokonale rozpracovaný itinerář, jen dva týdny naprosté volnosti a touha dojít pěšky podél naší jižní hranice ze Šumavy do Podyjí.
ze šumavy do podyjí v kostce
stát: Česká republika
délka: 365 km
převýšení: ↑ 1743 m ↓ 1739 m
začátek: Hojsova Stráž
konec: Znojmo
mapa:
Hojsova Stráž – Hůrka – Modrava – Strážný – Plešné jezero – Frymburk (přejezd vlakem z Nového Údolí) – Vyšší Brod – Rožmberk
Třeboň – Chlum u Třeboně – Albeř – Slavonice
Oslnovice – Bítov – Vranov nad Dyjí – Znojmo
nocoviště
Na Šumavě jsme nocovali na nouzových nocovištích v Hůrce, Modravě, Strážném a u Pešného jezera. Vlastně jsme šli ob jedno nocoviště. Je tedy možné si šumavské dny rozdělit na dva a mít pohodových 15 km, namísto 30 km.
V Jižních Čechách a Podyjí jsme spali v kempech u rybníků. Na začátku června ještě nebyla sezóna, tak některé byly bez recepce a bufetu. Někdy nám to vyneslo i nocleh zdarma, protože tam zkrátka nikde nebyl nikdo, komu zaplatit, ani žádný kontakt na recepci. Sem tam jsme se uložili i do skrytu lesa.
voda
Vodu jsme si brali v kempech a na Šumavě prosili po hospodách. Teď už nosíme filtr, takže bychom mohli využívat i přírodní zdroje a těch po celé části treku bylo dostatek.
pěšky ze šumavy do podyjí – národní park šumava
Červnové putování jsme započali na návsi v Hojsově stráži, kde nás vysadil spoj náhradní autobusové dopravy. Bylo to asi 4 km od železniční stanice, kam jsme původně chtěli dojet. Ty 4 km navíc nás večer doslova došly. Zamýšleli jsme spát na nouzových nocovištích, kterých je na Šumavě celkem šest. Kdo je neznáte, jsou to ohrazené plácky, kde je možné v národním parku na jednu noc postavit stan. První bylo přes 30 km vzdálené nocoviště Hůrka.
hojsova stráž – hůrka
Obešli jsme první dvě ze šumavských ledovcových jezer, Černé a Čertovo. Potkávali jsme jen málo lidí, ještě nezačali prázdniny a ani nebylo nejtepleji.
Vždycky se na treku těším na první oběd venku. Většinou máme ještě něco z domova, něco „slavnostnějšího“ – plněný sendvič, quiche se zeleninou, lívance. Tentokrát jsme obědvali na březích Čertova jezera a pozorovali strmé břehy vystupující z černé hladiny. V Železné rudě jsme doplnili vodu a začali stoupat asfaltovým peklem vzhůru. Proklínali jsme toho, koho napadlo šumavkou hřebenovku vyasfaltovat a spolu s ním i každého cyklistu na elektrokole, který nás předjel do kopce a zvesela na nás volal. My se pod tíhou našich baťohů zmohli jen na přikývnutí.
Nouzové nocoviště Hůrka jsme vyhlíželi jak zemi zaslíbenou. Pro dnešní noc jsme měli tenhle kousek Šumavy jen pro sebe. Jen my dva, stromy a káně kroužící na nebi. Batohy jsme odlehčili snědením večeře a u čaje seděli před stanem a dívali se, jak obloha potemňuje. Šumavská noční obloha je jako návštěva planetária. Tisíce hvězd mihotá na černočerném nebi.
hůrka – modrava
Druhý den ráno jsme seběhli do Prášil a v cukrárně Pampeliška si dali moc dobrou kávu. Odtud jsme začali mírné stoupání k Prášilskému jezeru, kde jsme si rozbalili oběd a užívali si výhledy, které jsme měli sami pro sebe. Na odchodu jsme se vystřídali s dalšími poutníky. Chodit po horách brzy na začátku léta nebo ještě na jaře má své liduprázdné kouzlo.
Podél Roklanskho potoka jsme došli na Modravu a zavítali do místního pivovaru Leyer. Ochutnali jsme místní pivo a osvěžení se uložili k spánku na modravském nouzovém nocovišti. Dnes jsme měli spolunocležníky. Ráno po nich nebylo ani vidu, ani slechu. To ne snad, že by odcházeli ještě za tmy. Jen my vyspáváme. Před několika lety jsme ve stanu vstávali za svítání a s prvními paprsky již vyráželi na cestu. Teď i ve stanu spíme dlouho. Snad za to můžou ty nafukovací matrace. Jsou vážně pohodlný! Navíc nám každé ráno trvá si udělat snídani, u které pak sedíme klidně i hodinu a až pak balíme své obydlí.
modrava – strážný
Pokračovali jsme kolem pramene Vltavy, přes Bučinu až do Strážného. V Bučině jsme četli o zaniklých osadách, železné oponě a Králích Šumavy. Celé pohraničí má takovou zvláštní opuštěnou energii. Zároveň není snad ani tolik smutná, jen taková těžká. Jakoby toho zůstalo spousta neřečeného a násilně přerušeného. Ve Strážném jsme potkali spolunocležníky z Modravy a strávili spolu hezký večer povídáním, než nás komáři zahnali do stanů.
strážný – plešné jezero
Poslední horská etapa nás zavedla přes Nové Údolí, Třístoličník, až na vrchol Plechého. Kamenným polem jsme pak v podvečer klesali k Plešnému jezeru a poslednímu šumavskému nouzovému nocovišti. Mladou rodinu, kterou jsme tam večer potkali, jsme potkali o dva týdny později na lezecké stěně v Praze. Baví mě tyhle „náhody“.
Poslední dva dny na Šumavě jsme trávili u Lipna. Udělalo se opravdu teplo a tak jsme každý večer plavali v Lipně a vracel se k nám ten dětský pocit prázdnin.
ze šumavy do podyjí – jižní čechy
Druhý týden v červnu přišly tropy. Měli jsme štěstí, že už jsme sešli z hor do třeboňské pánve a procházeli jsme lesy a kolem rybníků.
V Třeboni jsme zůstali dva dny a jenom se koupali, chodili na náměstí na zmrzlinu a na výlety do lesa. Bez těžkého batohu na zádech jsme měli pocit, že létáme. Po dvou dnech se ochladilo a my vyrazili zase v plné polní dál směrem do České Kanady a k Novohradským horám.
Prošli jsme Chlumem u Třeboně a v nedalekém Staňkově si pochutnali na candátovi v rybím bistru U Sumečka společně s gangem místních Hells Angels na babetách. Zažili jsme bouřku v kempu v Albeři a v malebné restauraci Holubník v podhradí Landštejna jsme jedli kroupovou polévku a palačinky s marmeládou jako od maminky. Nocleh jsme našli v lese a další den přišli do Slavonic a opět našli místo, kde podávali skvělou kávu. U šálků jsme čekali na autobus, abychom přejeli část po silnici a přiblížili se tak závěrečné etapě a národnímu parku Podyjí.
ze šumavy do podyjí – podyjí
Oproti Jižním Čechám a Šumavě, kde jsem trávila v dětství téměř každé prázdniny, pro mě bylo Podyjí úplně nové. Krajina od Bítova vedla kolem vranovské vodní nádrže a sem tam odbočila do voňavých borových lesů, ze kterých nás sem tam vyvedla na bzučící a cvrlikající louku. Bylo opět velké teplo a přes cestu přebíhaly zelené ještěrky a do křovin se spěšně schovávaly velké zmije, které jsme svými kroky vyplašili z odpoledního vyhřívání. Jediné, co jsme viděli byl mizející klikatý hřbet v houštině u cesty.
národní park podyjí
Ve Vranově nad Dyjí zrovna probíhala rekonstrukce lávky a my večer jako zázrakem chytli poslední loď do kempu na druhém břehu. Opět jsme si užili večerní koupání, jídlo v bistru a noc ve voňavém borovém háji u vody. Ráno jsme se probudili do posledního dne, který nás přes národní park Podyjí přivedl k našemu cíli, Znojmu. Výhledy do údolí klikatící se Dyje byly nezaznamenatelně krásné.
Vinice Šobes nám přinesla vítané osvěžení ve stínu stánku s chladivými víny. Lehce ovínění a pěkně zpečení jsme po celkem nachozených 365 km došli do Znojma. Zůstali jsme ve vodáckém kempu pod přehradou a hned vedle našli fantastické bistro pro naši „hrdinskou“ žranici.
(Odměna na konci každého treku, o které dlouho dopředu mluvíme a sníme).
Měli fish&chips a skvělou kávu a ještě lepšího pana hospodského, který si s námi několik hodin vykládal o jeho i našich cestách. Nakonec nám do hovoru vpadl jeden místní bezzubý štamgast:
„Já bych taky v mládí cestoval, kdybych zrovna neseděl. Ale prošel jsem se, to zas jo. Každý den po vězeňským dvoře.“
Další záznami z našich cest kolem hranice České republiky si můžete přečíst v našich dalších článcích.
Lehký krok a hezké putování,
MarťaskaZ
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